1939 Trip Diary of a Scottish Immigrant to America Returning Home via the Panama Canal for the First Time in 26 Years, Experiencing Europe in the Months Just Before the Second World War Would Change Everything

On offer is the diary of a Scottish immigrant to the United States, following her first visit home since she left for America 26 years earlier.

This diary, kept by Mary Hodge Winchester (1892-1983), details her first class voyage, accompanied by her 17-year-old daughter, Marjorie, back to Scotland to visit family left behind and discover the United Kingdom through the lens of a mature, well-traveled adult. It also details her four months based in Scotland and travelling to nearby locations and a rocky journey back to America and home to Seattle. 

Mary was born in Lochwinnoch, Scotland to parents Duddingston Hodge and Margaret Park. As a young adult in 1915, after a stop in Sydney, Australia, Mary moved to the USA. In January of 1916, she married fellow Scottish immigrant John Duncan Winchester (1883-1980) in Butte, Montana. John was born to David Winchester and Jessie McLaren Lauder. He had arrived in New York in 1914 and initially worked as a miner. After the birth of their first child, the Winchesters moved to Seattle, Washington. John worked as a machinist and a driver, eventually opening his own company in the “transfer and hauling” industry. Together, Mary and John had two daughters, Isabella Hooper (1916-1997) and Marjorie Lander (1922-2009).  

Ship records show that Mary and Marjorie boarded the Knusten Line’s M.S. Sophie Bakke, mastered by B. Barene, in Tacoma, Washington on March 25, 1939. The ship had originally departed from Vancouver, Canada and it docked in Glasgow, Scotland on May 28, 1939. 

Mary documents their travels in a “My Trip” diary. The first page, titled Itinerary, is where Mary writes a one-page overview of their two-month journey to Glasgow:

“Leave Seattle 2.30 P M March 26th day arrive at Lintone 2.30th arrive Portland 30-1st Arrive St Johns 2nd Leave in afternoon 2nd Oakland 3rd San Francisco — 4th May 4th in San Pedro Los Angeles 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 6 - 14 at Sea 14th June Docked at Panama at 11.45 P M 14th 8.30 AM - 15th then the Canal to the Caribbean Sea Past Broads Island off the Mexican Coast & on into the Atlantic Ocean Passing Mona Island & on to Glasgow going up the Firth of Clyde seeing many interesting Places & Land Marks on the way. Glasgow Sunday X May”

Next Mary details her daily adventures both on the ship and at ports. She also references the activities of her daughter and the other passengers. She makes a few passing comments that hint at some challenges in her personal life back home, such as her Mother’s Day entry:

“I feel very blue, the two mothers on board have been opening surprise packages & cards & I do feel let down, I will feel better soon & after all I might get a letter at Panama & we had a lovely day laughing but I was still feeling a bit sick from my sunburn but Marge had a good time we had all the officers who were off duty at the party &  it was quite an event for them as they are rarely treated” [May 14, 1939].

Most of Mary’s entries are newsy and upbeat. She writes of various stops on the journey, such as visits to San Francisco’s Chinatown, the World’s Fair on Treasure Island, Alcatraz, Panama City, the Panama Canal and Gatun Lake, and more. Mary’s writing seamlessly incorporates historical observations, descriptions of ship life and a tourist’s fascination. Some excerpts:  

 “Marge is writing to John…here we are in Oakland…quite a sight…Alcatraz was also quite a sight and there are quite a lot of flowers on the Island and the Electric train is quite near the dock so we are going to town and the fair…we went into Oakland…went to the fair which was very interesting but a bit disappointing…came back in time for dinner bringing Myrtle and JD Kennedy with us…” [April 29-30, 1939]. [Note: the Golden Gate International Exposition was a major World's Fair on Treasure Island in San Francisco Bay]. 

“A beautifull & warm morning  the girls are all in sun suits on the Sun deck the pool is filled so swimming this afternoon Margie & Celene went swimming I took only one dip Margie stayed about an hour & had a grand time in the evening I played bridge with Miss Huntington & Mr Beard…” [May 7, 1939].

 “...We are now going through the first lock called Pedro Miguel, it is all so very interesting, we take a negro crew for the trip through the locks little cars pull us by cable all the way through, there are guards everywhere ...Marjorie just says I am sorry Betty is missing all this, it cost 6000 dollars to send each ship through the locks. Our pilot for the Canal is Leut Commander Hans M. Schloming USN Reserves…” [undated, but around May 16, 1939]

“...We are traveling now right through where they cut the [Panama] canal right throu the mountain. I would have taken pictures but they are not allowed, we are traveling through gold Hill and contractors Hill, there is a plaque on the side hill in memory of Major Gaillard engineer for the famous cut…we have come to the second locks…there are 4 ships ahead of us so the girls got the 1st Mate to put down the Jacobs ladder and 3 of them went swimming in the bay - or Gatun Lake rather…” [undated, but context puts the entry at around May 17, 1939].

 Upon arrival in Scotland, Mary and Marjorie spend time with members of both the Hodge family and the Winchester family. She names many family members and friends, and also writes about the United Kingdom like a curious tourist. She is staying with her older brother, Duddingston Hodge and his wife, Euphemia. 

She spends her time back home exploring her home country and roots, learning more about her family members, connecting with friends, and taking some exciting trips to nearby locations where her passion for history is on full display. Some excerpts give the flavour of her overseas entries:

 “Arrived in Glasgow last night about 7 P.M…Dudd, Pheimie, Isa and Margt met us, we had a long slow sail up the Clyde & it was very interesting. We saw so many war ships in construction & saw the Queen Elizabeth just finished…” [May 29, 1939]. 

[Note: The family members who met them are likely her older brother, Duddington Hodge, his wife Euphemia Ann Kennedy, and Isabella and Margaret, two of their five children].

“...Went on for a long walk to see where Mrs. McLean [a relation of her mother-in-law] lived. I will try to go see her” [June 11, 1939].

Mary and Marjorie did trips outside of Scotland, including visits to London and Edinburgh:

“...We went to Madam Tausards it is all very wonderfull, then on to St Pauls to see the whispering gallery as the guide talked we could hear him on the wall on the other side, then…up to the stone gallery some 375 steps 340 feet high…we wrote our names on the second landing…” [June 23, 1939].

 On a visit to Edinburgh Castle, Mary wrote many pages about what she learned. She was absolutely fascinated by the history. A brief excerpt:

“...We also saw Mary Queen of Scots chair it is 400 years old andthe only one in existence, and her portrait at the age of 45 and is the original...we saw right beside the Castle from Mary’s window a row of houses that was bombed during the last war 1917, they think it was ment for the Castle and it just missed it…”.

Most of Mary and Marjorie’s time is spent is Scotland.

 “It was nice & warm but we didn’t find Mothers grave. D hadn’t gone since we left Scotland 26 years ago I felt awful about it, I did think he was different” [July 17, 1939, Glasgow]

“...So miserable Phemie rubbed me and put plaster on, still coughing, stayed in bed all day, Kate called” [July 19, 1939]. 

The women depart Glasgow on August 19:

“Had my hair done and went over town then packed and got ready to leave, we were at the dock by 9:30. Dudd, Jessie, Phemie and Donald came on board we sailed about 2AM” [Aug 18, 1939].

The voyage home is documented less thoroughly as Mary was extremely seasick for much of it, but she still writes regularly.

“Feeling a little better but have to stay in bed had a visit from Mrs. McDonald, Mrs. Davis, Mrs. Humes, feeling very sick the Dr. says I am sea sick, being so weak it's horrible and very painful” [Aug 22, 1939]. 

 After docking in New Jersey on August 27th, they had a few whirlwind adventures before taking the train home. Excerpts:

“Here we are in NJ….Went dancing in eve with Alex had a fine time at childs…Got letter from D. J and Flo…Saw Wizard of Oz with Judy G. and Mickey R. in person…” [Aug 27, 1939].

They also went to the World’s Fair, Radio City Music Hall, shopping and visiting friends before getting on a train on August 30th, due west. The final entry:

“Arrived home by 830 met by Dad, Isabell and Everet and home, spent the day unpacking, very tired. Retired early, writing. ‘Twas a grand trip, Mary & Marge Winchester” [Sept 2, 1939]. 

 As well as tracking their trip in daily diary format, Mary made use of the Travel Diary’s formal format and listed side trips such as Oakland, San Francisco, Port Glasgow, Edinburgh, and New York. She summarizes her experiences briefly there though most are written up in elaborate detail within her main entries. She also fills out the People Met section, listing many new friends and a few addresses. Examples:

“Jessie is Mrs. Binns…. Mr. and Mrs. Wood Oklahoma, Mr. Crawford at Trossauds…” 

And in the Incidents section she records:

“Baby chimp at zoo, church announcement and christening, Eastern Star…”

Tipped into the diary is a single photo of three people dressed in military uniform. On the back it is noted that the people are “Soldier Duddington, ATS Margaret, Sailor Stewart” and the photos stamped Aug, 1942. 

Taken together, this diary is a terrific summary of the experience of a European-American journeying home and realizing all she left behind for her new life in America, while simultaneously seeing her home region in a new light as an adult with an astute eye to its history. Family conflict is alluded to though never explicitly discussed, and the experience of the young Marjorie, an American-born daughter of immigrants, is also alluded to. 

Approximately 90 pages of handwriting. Diary was originally written in pencil but it is evident that someone has traced it in pen. Unknown as to whether that was Mary herself. The diary is in very good condition.